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Mendoza:
Red:
Trivento, Lujan de Cuyo (Mendoza, Argentina) Malbec “Golden Reserve” Black Series 2020 ($20, Eagle Peak Estates):  Trivento produces a host of Malbec so be sure you read the label. This plummy one, named “Golden Reserve” and with a black and gold label, is a big, ripe red with suave texture and mild tannins that makes it ideal for entering a crowd this summer around the grill. What is lacks in complexity it makes up for with a plush dark fruity profile.
88 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2024
Rosé:
Montes, Valle de Colchagua (Chile) Syrah and Grenache “Cherub” Rosé Wine 2023 ($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):  Montes has through the years been a brand which can be depended upon to make enjoyable, sound wines – no matter the style or variety. This pink wine, a combination of Syrah (85%) and Grenache, is very fresh with textured tastes of strawberries – fully ripe and not quite – that is refreshing from start to finish.
90 Roger Morris Apr 30, 2024
Burgundy:
Red:
Domaine Boris Champy, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune (Burgundy, France) “Bignon 421” 2022 ($55):  Boris Champy, one of the Burgundy’s most talented winemakers is, paradoxically, one of the least recognized. Although he deserves it, Champy lacks the rock-star profile of a Dominque Lafon, Benjamin Leroux, and others. Thankfully, for us consumers, the prices of his wines reflect that. Champy, an enologist by training, worked at Dominus in Napa Valley for a decade, was the technical director for years at Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top negociants, and was the estate manager at Clos des Lambrays, a grand cru property in Morey-Saint Denis. Then in 2019 opportunity struck. Didier Montchovet, a grower located in Nantoux, a village just above Pommard in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune, was set to retire, but had no heirs. One of Montchovet’s claims to fame was that his domaine was the first in Burgundy to be certified by Demeter as Biodynamic. Champy acquired the estate and, judging from his early wines, the rest will be history. The Hautes Côtes — both Beaune and Nuits — as they are called, are the up-and-coming areas for Burgundy thanks to climate change. In the past, these rugged areas produced rustic wines from often under-ripe grapes. Now, that’s all changed, as evidenced by Champy’s Bignon 421. Bignon is the name of the plot while 421 indicates the elevation of the vineyard in meters. The elevation provides cool night which allows grapes to hold on to acidity, which translates into lively freshness in the wines. Champy’s deft hand explains the incredible elegance. The striking 2022 Bignon 421 delivers fresh red fruit notes impeccably balanced by savory spice and herbal ones. It fits my definition of Burgundy — flavor without weight. And given the prices of Burgundy today, it represents a fine value for Pinot Noir-based wines from that part of the world.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2024
White:
Guillot-Broux, Mâcon-Chardonnay (Burgundy, France) “En Serre” 2022 ($30):  The Mâconnais in southern Burgundy is the place to find affordable Chardonnay-based white Burgundy, especially from a top-notch produced like Guillot Broux. Although the wine is made from Chardonnay grape, the Chardonnay on the label in this case refers to a village of the same name. Guillot Broux is a genius at extracting the maximum from less prestigious appellations, as is the case with this bright and energetic wine. They combine the characteristic fruitiness of white wines from the Mâconnais with an alluring and buttressing minerality, not often found in this appellation. It was even better the next day, having sat open in the fridge overnight. It delivers more than you would expect from a wine from the Mâconnais and is an excellent choice for current drinking.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2024
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Rhône:
Red:
Guillaume Gonnet, Côtes du Rhone (France) “Le Rêveur” 2022 ($15):  Owner and winemaker of his family’s Châteauneuf du Pape estate since 2006, 'Guillaume Gonnet’’ was created as a separate line of Rhone wines by Guillaume and his Australian wife Kelly. Their 2022 Cotes du Rhone is 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah from vineyards said to average 40 to 45 years old. Fermentation is by native years and the wine is aged for 12 months in concrete vats. It comes across as a stylish, approachable red with pretty aromas of black cherry and a hint of lavender. Elegant and harmonious, it offers lively berry and spice flavors, suggesting it is best enjoyed over the next year or two. It is a Rhône that can be chilled and be a crowd pleaser, picnic wine during warm summer days.
90 Norm Roby Apr 30, 2024
Piedmont:
Red:
La Spinetta, Langhe DOC (Piedmont, Italy) Nebbiolo Estate Bottled 2021 ($31, Skurnik Wines):  Giuseppe and Lidia Rivetti created a winery in 1977 where they made their mark making single-vineyard Moscato d’Asti wines. Several years later they added Barbera and Nebbiolo grapes. Today Giorgio Rivetti is the winemaker. The Nebbiolo grapes were fermented for 7 to 8 days in temperature-controlled roto-fermenters with malolactic fermentation in French oak. The wine was then aged in new medium toasted French oak for 12 months then moved to stainless steel vats for 2 months, then bottled and aged another 2 months. The result is a delightful light bodied, easy drinking wine with bright, spicy red cherry fruit with vanilla notes enlivened with crisp acidity and chewy tannins, perfect with a fully-loaded pizza.
92 Rebecca Murphy Apr 30, 2024
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Tuscany:
Red:
Piaggia, Carmignano Riserva (Tuscany, Italy) 2020 ($52, Skurnik Wines):  Carmignano was perhaps the original “Super Tuscan” wine. Producers here in the Montalbano hills northwest of Florence have been blending Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon for centuries. Carmignano has been recognized as a high-quality region for all that time, at least by the locals. With wines like Piaggia’s Carmignano now offered, the world at large may begin to take note. The Piaggia 2020 Carmignano Riserva is a lovely example of the beauty of Sangiovese given added texture and complexity by the Cabernet grapes. The nose shows pure red cherry and plum tones with hints of blackberry, violets, cocoa, herbs and subtle baking spices. Layers of red and black cherry fruits dominate the palate and are underscored by subtle herbal, earth, cocoa and spice tones. This is exemplary Sangiovese, with purity, complexity and a rich texture. The vivid red cherry fruit carries through the long finish. Delicious now, it can be cellared for another decade.
93 Wayne Belding Apr 30, 2024
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Veneto:
Red:
Tenuta Sant’Antonio, Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG (Veneto, Italy) “Antonio Castagnedi” 2018 ($50, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  The Sant’Antonio winery was established in 1989 when the four Castagnedi brothers, Armando, Massimo, Paolo, and Tiziano, had the opportunity to buy a farm in Monti Garbi in the Valpolicella region in Veneto in northeast Italy. The grapes for this Amarone, 70% Corvina/Corinone, 20% Rondinella, 5% Croatina, and 5% Oseleta were the first grapes of the season to be harvested, which means the sugar levels were lower and the alcohol content not as high. The grapes are dried, a process called appassimento, three months before fermentation, then fermented and aged two years in new 500-liter French oak casks, and aged eight months in bottle. It is a powerful wine with aromas and flavors of very ripe black cherry, blackberry fruit, with dried figs, dark chocolate and vanilla. The intense fruit flavors and nine grams of residual sugar are supported by crisp, citrusy acidity and chewy dusty tannins. Serve it with full flavored meats like braised beef, grilled lamb or barbequed beef with a rich, savory sauce.
92 Rebecca Murphy Apr 30, 2024
Tenuta Sant’Antonio, Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore DOC (Veneto, Italy) “Mont Garbi” 2020 ($24, Dalla Terra Winery Direct):  Ripasso literally means two passes, which describes a winemaking technique used in Italy’s Veneto wine region. This wine is crafted by Paolo Castagnedi at the winery that he owns with his three brothers. It contains 70% Corvina/Corinone, 20% Rondinella, plus grapes which were fermented twice. The first fermentation was with the newly harvested grapes. The second entailed a week of fermentation on pressed skins from an Amarone wine. A pretty light ruby color and delicate spicy red berry fruit that is well balanced with crisp acidity and well integrated tannins provides a silky mouthfeel and lingering finish. Enjoy it with a mushroom risotto or a grilled pork tenderloin.
93 Rebecca Murphy Apr 30, 2024
Red:
Luis Pato, Barraida (Portugal) "Quinta de Ribeirinho Pé Franco" 2015 ($160):  This was aged 24 months in new French oak and comes in at just 12.5% alcohol. This is sourced from ungrafted Baga vines that Luis planted in one of his vineyards, which is his top wine. This is concentrated and dense but shows elegance and poise with well-integrated oak and good structure. A bevy of black cherries, currants, bitter chocolate, cinnamon, espresso, orange peel, tar, dried rose, and meaty earth will envelop your palate. This is a serious effort with impeccable balance that should age magnificently.
98 Miranda Franco Apr 30, 2024
Quinta das Bágeiras, Barraida (Portugal) Tinto Reserva 2020 ($19):  Quinta das Bágeiras Tinto Reserva is a blend of 60% Baga and 40% Touriga Nacional that opens quickly with a broad range of aromatics of dark berry and stone fruit kissed with baking spice. The rich palate offers flavors of spiced blackberries, currants, and plums, balanced by soft acidity and firm tannins. The finish is long, dry, and complex.
92 Miranda Franco Apr 30, 2024
Julia Kemper Wines, Dão (Portugal) Reserva 2011 ($24):  The 2011 Reserva red is a blend of 50%, Touriga Nacional, 25%, Tinta Roriz, 15%, Alfrocheiro and 10% Jaen. This is an incredible bargain, given the depth and complexity. Aromas of dried strawberries, currant, and forest floor take hold. The palate is incredibly structured, with grippy yet smoothed tannins and a beautiful lift of freshness on the finish. It is driven by earth and minerality, with red and black fruits peeking through spice components.
94 Miranda Franco Apr 30, 2024
Quinta dos Roques, Dão (Portugal) Touriga Nacional 2019 ($30):  Quinta dos Roques 2019 Touriga Nacional is a well-made red that opens with aromas of fresh violets, pine and red fruit. It has fine depth, good freshness, beautiful structure with firm tannins and a long finish. This is a super Touriga Nacional that should develop and improve nicely.
93 Miranda Franco Apr 30, 2024
Sparkling:
João Pato, Barraida (Portugal) Maria Duck Pét-Nat NV ($22):  The Pato family is responsible for putting Portugal’s Barraida region on the international wine stage. This hazy, tart and wild pét-nat is made by Maria under the João Pato or Duckman pseudonym. At only 10.2% alcohol, this is the sort of wine that can take you through the whole afternoon.
91 Miranda Franco Apr 30, 2024
White:
Caminhos Cruzados, Dão (Portugal) Encruzado Reserva 2020 ($35):  Pale gold in the glass, this wine delivers aromatics of wet stone and citrus, with similar flavors and a firm mineral line that supports hints of orange peel, stone fruit, plus a touch of tannic grip. It is beautifully textured, with lively acidity, freshness, and a long and persistent finish. It is a very gastronomic wine with phenomenal aging potential.
91 Miranda Franco Apr 30, 2024
Red:
Black Elephant Vintners, Western Cape (South Africa) “Three Men in a Tub with a Rubber Duck” 2020 ($21, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage Co):  Black Elephant Vintners was founded by Kevin Swart, Raymond Ndlovu, and Jacques Wetnzel after all three left their previous jobs to found their own winery. The winery's name is a translation of Kevin and Raymond’s last names and a nod to Jackques who is the vintner. Three Men in a Tub was one of their first wines, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Mourvèdre. The wine is smoky with black cherry, leather, blistered red bell peppers, boysenberry, and violet notes. Personally, I enjoy that the 2% Mourvèdre comes through in the wine’s rich dark-fruit profile. The label plays into the winery's symbolism and eclectic style. Like the three friends who came together to form the winery, the grapes in this wine work really well together.
90 Vince Simmon Apr 30, 2024
Sparkling:
Noble Hill, Simonsberg (Coastal Region, South Africa) Blanc de Blancs, Brut Nature 2020 ($30, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage Co):  Winemaker and owner Kristopher Tillery expanded his family’s vineyard and restaurant into the Noble Hill winery, sourcing all his wine from estate grown grapes. The property is old with a number of buildings and the family found old keys in the most random places on the property. Kristopher used the keys to symbolize the cultivar, or varietal, on his labels with each cultivar being given a specific key. On this Blanc de Blanc, the Chardonnay key is used to show that the wine is made with only Chardonnay. This South African Cap Classique’s bright acidity is perfect for a sparkling wine. In addition, the wine’s wet chalk, red apple, pear, and almond croissant notes are exceptional and exactly what I look for in a high-end Sparkling wine. At $30, this wine’s flavors and quality well outperforms its price point.
92 Vince Simmon Apr 30, 2024
White:
Noble Hill, Simonsberg-Paarl (Coastal Region, South Africa) Chenin Blanc Sur Lie 2022 ($21, Well Crafted Wine & Beverage Co):  Chenin Blanc is king of South Africa with more plantings than any other grape variety, or cultivar if you are using the South African-preferred term. Noble Hill’s team is softening Chenin Blanc’s naturally bright acidity through the sur lie method -- stirring up the dead yeast left over from fermentation as the wine ages before bottling. The resulting wine presents bruised pear and apple but also fresh nectarine, sourdough, and honeysuckle. From their regenerative and organic farming practices to their traditional minimalist winemaking process, Noble Hill makes some incredible wines that show quality and elegance.
90 Vince Simmon Apr 30, 2024
California:
Red:
Ink Grade, Howell Mountain - Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($195):  The Ink Grade vineyard, on the Pope Valley side of the Howell Mountain AVA, was owned by Heitz as a source of blending grapes, but when Lawrence Wine Estates purchased it, they decided it deserved a brand of its own. A mix of red and black fruits, it also walks the tightrope between being elegant and just lean. Light in structure, it is lightly spicy with some brambles notes, dusty tannins and a pleasant, lengthy finish. It will age well.
93 Roger Morris Apr 30, 2024
William Cole Vineyards, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon “Ten - Chapter Two” NV ($500):  I have had some unique beverages cross my desk over my years as a wine critic, but none quite like this one. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from ten consecutive vintages -- 2010 through 2019 -- makes this an extreme rarity. It is quite a pleasant surprise actually, not at all bombastic or novelty driven, instead opting toward rich but mellow aromatics, sort of what you would expect from a blend of old and new. Not knowing the percentages from each vintage, but knowing something about vintages in general from the region, you can imagine the leaner, now fully calmed 2010 and 2011 vintage vibes melding with the towering 2018 and 2019 vintages’ exceptional depth and structure to produce a wine for enjoying now or hanging on to for a few years to let things coalesce even further. There is no excessive oak character that you might expect from some portion of the blend having been in barrel for 12 years -- the wood tones instead support the rich cherry/berry fruit character with their cedar chest style and help extend the finish where a little anise note shines out. You will want a little bite of something with a little fat to let this show itself fully -- a medium strength cheese or some steak bites will do the trick.
98 Rich Cook Apr 30, 2024
BloodRoot Cellars, North Coast (California) "Undertow" Proprietary Red 2021 ($36):  Noah and Kelly Dorrance who founded Banshee in 2008 and then moved on to Reeve Wines are now part of the BloodRoot team, said to be sort of a secret collaboration with several other winemakers. This edition of “Undertow" brings together Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Grenache and a small touch of Sangiovese. With a little aeration, the aroma emphasizes blackberry and plum fruit with a hint of tobacco leaf. Medium bodied with pleasing plum and spice on the palate, it comes across as an approachable Cabernet with light tannin in a ready to drink style.
90 Norm Roby Apr 30, 2024
Talley Vineyards, San Luis Obispo Coast (Central Coast, California) Pinot Noir 2022 ($46):  Talley has been making Burgundy varietals for years, but in recent vintages it seems to have lost a little of its gravitas – still good, but like it is somewhere in transition, either in the vineyards or in the winery. At the same time, this one has lovely fruit aromas, is a little light in structure and has elegant cherry flavors and a lightly tangy finish. But it seems to drift a bit in mid-palate.
91 Roger Morris Apr 30, 2024
Leoness Cellars, Temecula Valley (California) Syrah Alessandro Vineyard, Foundation Block 2021 ($65):  Syrah is planted with success in many places in the wine world. It gets its greatest fame from big, powerful wines like Hermitage and Côte Rôtie in France’s Rhône Valley or the opulent Shiraz bottlings from Australia. This wine is from a surprising spot – the Temecula Valley of southern California. Leoness Cellars has crafted a complex, elegant and multilayered Syrah that offers purity of fruit, depth, complexity and a plush, approachable style. The 2021 Leoness Foundation Block Syrah shows lovely scents of blueberry, blackberry and plum fruits interwoven with nuances of violets, vanilla, game, earth and black pepper. The flavors are rich and pleasing, with ripe blue and black fruits enhanced by exotic earth, spice and floral tones. The 2021 Leoness Foundation Block Syrah expresses a beautiful sense of place.
93 Wayne Belding Apr 30, 2024
Bella Luna Estate Winery, Templeton Gap District - Paso Robles (Central Coast, California) “Estate Riserva” Red Wine 2020 ($58):  I always enjoy having a stylized blend cross my desk and then, when tasting blind, finding out that it comes from a surprise appellation just adds to the fun. Cabernet and Sangiovese play well together in lots of famous Tuscan wines, and this wine tips its cap to those counterparts while also tipping itself off as a Central Coast California wine thanks to its richness and forward fruit character. If this is what I think it is, it’s a bottling that’s on quite a roll over the past few vintages. Nice to see the quality remaining in the top tier! Post reveal note: The previous two vintages of this bottling took Wine of the Year honors at Winemaker Challenge International Wine Competition, and this one came in a close second.
97 Rich Cook Apr 30, 2024
White:
Arkenstone, Howell Mountain - Napa Valley (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2018 ($106):  This lovely wine, with a splash of Semillon joining the Sauvignon, spent 11 months sur lie in concrete eggs and mixed oak barrels and then rested another 18 months in the bottle. It’s essentially a very lovely, slightly savory Sauvignon, very rich in texture and flavors, mainly of rounded apple fruits and mellow barrel notes – obviously a wine very enjoyable now but one that could enjoy much more time in the bottle.
93 Roger Morris Apr 30, 2024
Scheid Vineyards, Monterey (California) Chardonnay Estate Grown 2022 ($32):  For me, part of Chardonnay’s attraction is the stylistic variation that exists in the marketplace. Of course that is not the case for many drinkers, who prefer their Chardonnay in a very specific style from one or two very specific producers. So, it is good to find a version that can reach across many aisles and please everyone to some degree. This rendition offers just that, showing apple, lemon crème, a little oak toast, a little spice, good integration and a long finish that cleans the viscous midpalate texture up nicely. Sometimes compromise is the answer… tell your congressional representative.
94 Rich Cook Apr 30, 2024
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Virginia:
Red:
Afton Mountain Vineyards, Monticello (Virginia) "T" 2019 ($55):  This Merlot-dominant Bordeaux blend was one of the top 12 wines in the recently completed Virginia Governor’s Cup Competition. Firm, yet mild and unobtrusive tannins, presumably from the Cabernet Sauvignon, provide needed structure for the plummy fruit notes. The suave texture speaks to talented winemaking and what must have come from selecting only the best fruit. This refined mid-weight red grows in the glass and impresses with a long finish that highlights savory notes. Lovely to savor now, its balance suggests it will reward cellaring. For those interested in the specifics of the blend: Merlot 40% with equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.
94 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2024
King Family Vineyards, Monticello (Virginia) Meritage 2019 ($75):  Here is another winning wine from Virginia’s Monticello AVA. Surprisingly, Virginia actually ranks among the top ten states in terms of wine production and likely higher in terms of quality. This Merlot-dominate Bordeaux delivers a seamless combination of dark fruitiness and herbal, not-just-fruit elements. Not overdone, it displays a suave texture yet has plenty of necessary support. It would be a good choice for current consumption, but like the one from Afton Mountain Vineyards, its balance suggests it will develop even more complexity and beauty with proper cellaring. For those interested in the specifics of the blend: Merlot 48%, Petit Verdot 28%, Cabernet Franc 20%, and Malbec.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2024
Breaux Vineyards, Virginia (United States) Nebbiolo "The Fog" Reserve 2019 ($86):  Nebbiolo is another of those northern Italian grapes that seem to take better to the East Coast than the West, and Breaux Vineyards, located west of Washington, D.C., in Purcellville, does a very good job with the variety. The wine has lightly creamy blackberry fruit – long on the palate – with some savory underpinnings, hints of dark chocolate and very light tannins. You might be surprised when you examine the label to note that it’s 16.2% alcohol.
92 Roger Morris Apr 30, 2024
White:
Mountain & Vine Vineyards and Winery, Monticello (Virginia) Chardonnay 2022 ($39):  Here is more evidence that the diversity of the Virginia landscape allows that state to produce a wide range of wines, in this case a stylish Chardonnay. Mountain & Vine Vineyards and Winery Chardonnay, one of the top twelve wines from the recently concluded Virginia Governor’s Cup competition, impresses with it finesse. Not an opulent in-your-face Chardonnay, it captures your attention with a hint of fruitiness, a touch of minerality, and subtle creaminess. Fresh and bright, it is a delight to drink this mid-weight Chardonnay. The modest 12.5 percent stated alcohol allows its brilliance to show without a trace of heaviness or heat.
93 Michael Apstein Apr 30, 2024
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